Exploring the Fanal to Fio Trail: A Journey Through Madeira's Enchanting Forest
Through a primeval forest to a view over the northern coast
Ever since the mountain road to Ribeira da Janela was paved with tarmac, Madeira can offer up yet another attractive walking region to explore, centered around the Fanal forest station. The area is known for its ancient laurel-found trees. On most days of the year, dense fog creates a pristine atmosphere.
The signposted trail starts at the forest station and leads to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking the north coast - if the highlands are not shrouded in fog, this is certainly a spectacular sight.
hrough a primeval forest to a view over the northern coast
Ever since the mountain road to Ribeira da Janela was surfaced in tarmac, Madeira has opened up another attractive walking region centered around the Fanal Forest (Fanal Madeira) station. This area is renowned for its ancient fetid laurel trees, part of the unique ecosystems that make up the famous Madeira levadas. On most days of the year, dense fog envelops the forest, creating a primordial atmosphere. From the forest station, a signposted path begins that leads to a viewpoint overlooking the northern coast. If the highlands are not shrouded in fog, this is a spectacular vantage point.
Starting Point: At the Fanal Forest station (Posto Florestal), 1130m. From Ponta do Sol, follow the signs towards Paul da Serra. From the crossroads on the high plateau, take the ER 209 for another 8 km to reach Fanal. Parking is available at the forest station.
Grade: This route is a short circular trail via mostly good paths. Except for a brief stretch after the trailhead, the route-finding is straightforward. However, if the fog rolls in, it’s best to postpone your hike. There is no risk of vertigo.
Refreshment: There are no facilities en route.
As you start at the Fanal Forest station, take a moment to marvel at the gnarled fetid laurel trees that surround you. About 75m past the forest station, a sign (PR 13 Paul da Serra) directs you onto a trail lined with round wooden steps ascending through a slope rich in ferns. When the steps end, bear slightly right at a fork. After 100m, you’ll reach the sheer rim of the plateau, marked by wooden stakes with yellow and red waymarking. Here, you can enjoy splendid views of the northern coast.
The path leads along the rim of the high plateau towards the eagle fern-blanketed Pereira (1241m) and passes a good way to the left below the summit dome. More magnificent laurel trees line the trail, their trunks covered in moss and lichen, with some providing niches for ferns.
Twenty minutes in, the trail curves right at a hut of corrugated iron. About 150m past this hut, you'll arrive at a trail junction without a signpost. Bear left and follow the path, passing a cairn about 1.5m high. Continue 200m, and you’ll meet a broad, rocky trail. To the right, a sign points the way to Paul da Serra, but we’ll turn left instead. Shortly afterward, pass by some huts roofed with corrugated iron sheeting, alongside a trail that forks left toward Seixal.
After 150m past the huts, you’ll finally arrive at Fio (1120m), where an impressive view opens up into the Ribeira do Seixal valley lying over 1000m below—provided the valley isn't hidden by dense trade wind cloud cover. At the viewpoint, protected by a railing, you’ll find the ruins of an ancient goods lift.
From Fio, return to the fork marked for Paul da Serra and head straight along the stony trail to reach a broad meadow. Before reaching it, turn left onto a path that soon ascends for a short, stepped stretch, traversing the slope before joining a broad forest trail. Here, turn left, slightly ascending the slope until, five minutes later, you reach another miradouro (viewpoint) at 1170m, offering another lovely view into the Seixal valley. This viewpoint serves as our turn-around point.
If you wish, you could take the PR 13 trail for another 1.5 hours to reach Paul da Serra, during which you would cross the ER 209 several times. However, we will head back and, in five minutes, return to the forest trail. Instead of taking the stepped trail we used on the way in, continue straight along the forest trail, descending to the broad meadow below.
After crossing a junction, the trail leads towards a striking laurel tree. The Pedreira is now to your right. Five minutes past the laurel tree, the trail becomes tarmac-paved. At this point, where the tarmac begins, turn diagonally right onto a grassy trail to return to the Fanal Forest station.
Extra Tidbit: Close to the forest station, you’ll find a barbecue shelter with two picnic tables. A few meters below this area, a grassy trail begins, indistinct at first but soon broadens to reach the Lagoa in about 15 minutes. The crater lake only earns its name after a period of serious rainfall.
