The Ultimate Guide to São Lourenço Peninsula: Discover Madeira's Stunning Coastal Trails
Spectacular rocky coast in the furthest eastern corner of the island
On your way to Madeira, as you fly over this peninsula, your first impressions will certainly not live up to the cliché of the island as an evergreen floating garden. It's true that after rainy winters, the finger-shaped peninsula pointing out into the sea is covered with green grassy fluff, but still in summer the area is utterly arid, with the exception of unpretentious carpet weeds (Aizoaceae).
However, the wild and idyllic rocky coastline makes this tour of the island very popular and frequented - between 1000 and 1500 walkers pass here every day during the high season! If you prefer to enjoy peace and quiet, at least on the initial route, you should quickly finish your breakfast at the hotel and arrive at the large car park at the starting point of the walk no later than 9 am.
São Lourenço Peninsula: Spectacular Rocky Coast in the Furthest Eastern Corner of the Island
On the incoming flight path to Madeira, as you fly over this peninsula, your first impressions will likely contrast with the cliché of the island being an evergreen floating garden. After rainy winters, the finger-like peninsula, which juts into the sea, is covered in a green, grassy fluff. However, in summer, the terrain becomes arid except for the undemanding carpet weeds (Aizoaceae). Nevertheless, the wild and idyllic rocky coastline makes this a highly popular destination—during peak season, 1,000 to 1,500 walkers traverse this path daily! For a quieter experience along the route, it’s best to finish your breakfast quickly and arrive by 9 a.m. at the large car park at the start of the walk.
Starting Point: Baía d'Abra, 77m. From Machico, take the VR 1 until the motorway ends at the free-trade port (Zona Franca) at Caniçal; from here, follow the signs toward Ponta São Lourenço for 5km, where the road ends at the car park above Baía d'Abra. You can also reach Baía d'Abra via bus no. 113.
Grade: Easy walk, sometimes along stony paths; exposed sections are protected. The short but steep ascent to Morro do Furado is somewhat strenuous. Expect occasionally fierce winds on the São Lourenço peninsula, and remember: there’s no shade! Don’t forget your swimwear!
Refreshment: There’s a cafeteria in the Casa do Sardinha, a mobile kiosk at the car park (seasonal), and a beach bar in Prainha along the approach route.
Tips:
- Boat Tour: If the sea is calm, you can book a daily boat tour from Cais do Sardinha to the lighthouse isle Desembarcadouro with Madeira Sea Emotions (tel. +351 910 308 804, madeiraseaemotions.com). This offers a chance to experience the peninsula from the sea. Afterward, if you use the shuttle service, you can return by boat from Cais do Sardinha to Marina Quinta do Lord (bus stop for the SAM bus no. 113).
- Beach: Halfway between Caniçal and Baía d'Abra, you’ll find Prainha (bus stop). This natural beach of fine sand offers one of the best swimming experiences on Madeira.
From the car park above Baía d'Abra, there’s an information board detailing the São Lourenço peninsula. A walking path (PR 8) begins toward Cais do Sardinha, descending into a small valley and continuing along a well-marked log-paved path. Look across the peninsula to see a circular rock arch over the water and the notable peak of Morro do Furado ('the perforated'), at the foot of which stands the Casa do Sardinha surrounded by a small palm grove. After about 15 minutes, you will cross another path. You can descend the stepped path to the stony beach in the bay or go left to reach a spectacular viewpoint, showcasing the bizarrely shaped coastline.
Back on the main path, you’ll begin a short steep ascent. Soon, you'll climb a stepped cobbled path, secured by a heavy metal cable, along a rocky ridge to another viewpoint. Here, enjoy impressive views of a steep rock face with dyke intrusions. The path arches around Abra bay on the south side of the peninsula. At the same height as the round fish farm floating in the sea, the path crosses a land bridge just a few meters wide, with sheer cliffs dropping almost 100m on either side. The narrowest point of the peninsula is protected by a fence. You’ll get close to Casa do Sardinha, which is surrounded by date palms and stands out like an oasis in the rust to curry-yellow landscape.
A good way before the house, the environmental authorities have built a circular route that you should follow to the left. Before the path swings around to the house, enjoy a beautiful view of the northern side of the peninsula. The path then runs above and past Casa do Sardinha. Leave the circular path and start the steep ascent to Morro do Furado (160m). In the upper section, the ascent path is secured with a cable fence. Once at the summit, take in a spectacular panorama of the lighthouse on the Ilheu do Farol, the easternmost point on Madeira. The neighboring Desertas islands seem just a stone's throw away, and if the weather is clear, you can even see Porto Santo. This is a fabulous spot to take a rest, provided it’s not too windy.
Descend back to the circular route and Casa do Sardinha, where a cafeteria and picnic area may tempt you to take a break (a WC is available here). From there, a cobbled trail descends to Cais do Sardinha, a tiny pebble beach. If the sea is calm, you can dip your feet in the water or take a swim. At the picnic benches above the little bay, bear left to cross the wooden walkway and then climb back up to the starting point of the circular route.
From there, retrace your steps back to Baía d'Abra.
